Heavy-fabric sewing-machine



(No Model.) .8 Sheets-Sheet; 1. J. H. MORLEY.

HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

No. 270,971. Patented Jamzalas.

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8 sheets-sheet' 2. J. H; MORLEY.

HEAVY EABEIO SEWING MACHINE. Patented Jan.28, 1883.

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8 Sheets-Sheet 3. J. H. MORLEY.

HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

(No Model.)

Patented Jan. 23, 1883.

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(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 4. J. H. MORLEY.

HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

No. 270,971. Patented Ja.11.23, 1883.

` (No. Model.)

8 vSheets-Sheet 5.

J. H. MORLBY.

IIBAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jan.23, 1883.

(No Modell) 8 Sheets-Sheet 6. J. H. MO'RLHY.

HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jain. 2.3,. 1 883.

(-No Model.)

' 8 sheets-sheet 7. J. H.- MORLEY. HEAVY FABRIC SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jan.23,1883.

(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 8.

J. H. MORLEY.

HEAVY EAEEIG SEWING MACHINE.

No. 270,971. Patented JELZB, 1883.

UNITED STATES PATENT Carica.

JAMES H. MORLEY, OF HOLYOKE, ASSIGNOR TO THE MORLEY SEWING MACHINECOMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

HEAVY-FABRIC SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 270,971, dated January3, 1883.

Application tiled February 1, 1882.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JAMES H. MoaLEY, acitizen of the United States, residing at Holyoke, in the county ofHampden and State ot' Massachusetts, have invented new and usefulImprovements in Heavy-Fabric Sewing-Machines, ot' which the following isa specitication.

This invention relates to that class of sewing-machines known asneedle-feed7 machines, and to the details of the construction ot'machines of that class to particularly adapt them to heavy-fabric lapand butt seam work, the object being to provide a machine forheavy-fabric sewing, in which the needle-feed motions are positive inbothdirections and easily adjustable to varyinglengths f stitches, onehaving the operative parts reduced to the least practicable number, andrequiring but little power to run it, and to provide specialattachmentstherefor,whereby the machine is adapted to a great variety of heavywork.

In the drawings forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a sideelevation, partly in section, of a sewing-machine constructed accordingto my invention with thc feller thereon. Fig. 2 is a vertical section onthe linem, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a plan View ofthe eyed needle bar. Fig. 4is a plan view of the hook needle bar, together with the cast-011` barand its adj ustingattachinents thereto connected. Fig. 5 is a generalperspective View of the operative parts ofthe machine with the framethereof removed and thefront plate thereof shown in dotted outlines.Fig. 6 is a view ofthe. presserfoot anda part ot' the presser-foot bar,and illustrating the manner of passing aline of binding through saidpresser-foot and the tension device to operate upon said binding. Fig. 7is a view, looking from the rear, of some of the operative parts of themachine,the swinging frame being removed. Fig. S is a side elcvation,showing the ordinary arm of the .machine removed and a tube sewing-armsubstituted therefor. Fig. 9 illustrates a feller and gage adapted to beused with this machine. Fig. 10 is a rear end view of said feller andgage, showing the fabric as being folded therein in section. Fig. 11illustrates the upper side, and Fig. 12 the under side, of the seamsewed by employing the feller and gage, Figs. 9 and (No model.)

10. Fig. 13 illustrates a seam-gage adapted for use with this machine;and Figs. 14 and 15 are other views 'ot' the same seamer, showing thedifferent methods ot' forming seams bythe use thereof. Figs. 16 and 17illustrate the opposite sides of fabric after having been sewed by theuse of the seamer, Fig. 13. Fig. 1S illustrates the presser-footof themachine, having attached thereto a butt-seam guide, to-

gether with' sections of carpet fabric in place In the drawings, A isthe fratrie ot' the may chine. B is the oscillating frame. c is theshaft. d is a driving and cam pulley conlbined. e is the eyed needlebar. is the hookneedle bar. o is the cast-olir bar. r is the castot'adjusting-stop. s is the cast-oftl bar-guide. n is the cast-off. .r isthe eyed needle. is the hook-needle. z z are cranks on shaft c. a is thetake-up cam. b is the presser-foot cam. b2 is a grooved cam cut in thedrivingpulley d. j' is anelbow-lever. wis a connecting-rod. -c2 is theelbow-lever t'ulcrum-block. IL is the presser-foot bar. a is thepresser-toot. ol is the take-up. E is the front plate. t2 is thepresser-bar lever. K is the cloth-plate. v2 is thepresser-barlever-stud. c2 is the binding-tension on the presser-foot. c3is ,the binding. a2 are the oscillating-frame trunnions. a3 are thetrunnion-bearings. a3 indicates the cam-slots in the needle-bars. o2 isa cast-oft' bar friction-spring. o5 are studs on the front plate, E. mis thepresser-bar spring.' m2 is a lever-block on the presser-bar. H isthe clothplate stand on the arm J. o7 is the threadtension. J is the armof the machine. .L is the tube-work arm. `5 and 5% are respectively afeller and its gage. 6 indicates the fabric inFigs.10,11, 12, 14, 15,16,17. 7 is a seamer. 8 is a butt-seam guide. 9 is carpet fabric. 10

isa tube-scanner. 11 are tube-seamer guides."

12 is a tube-seamer 4folding-ring. 13 is tube- IOO fabric. 14 istube-fabric sewed together. -15 is a binder-tension.

Like letters refer to like parts in the several figures.

rlhe machine herein described is so constructed that the operator sitsor stands at the rear end thereof, or at the extreme right in Fig. l,and guides the edges of two pieces ot' fabric to aproper positionbetween the upwardpressing presser-foot a and the cloth-plate K, wherethe needles piercethem and feed them along after each stitch from rightto left, or from the rear toward the front end ofthe machine, as willbehereinafter fully set forth.

In this machine all the operative parts thereof are few in number,andare concentrated in that portion thereof directly under theclothplate stand on the end of the arm J.

The frame A of the machine is of au oblong form, running back from thefront plate, E, and having its rear end of half-round form, upon whichthe arm J is properly secured. The general form of its front end isshown in Fig. 2. The said front end of the frame A is provided with twohollow trunnion-bearings,

. a3, set opposite each other and screwed into said frame.

A front plate, E, having on its inner face, studs 05, which are piercedvertically to receive the presser-bar 7L, a stud, v2, to which is hungthe presser-bar lever t2, and a fulcrum-block, e2, to which adjustablytherein is pivoted the elbow-ieverf, is properly secured to the frontend of the frame A.

An oscillating frame, B, is constructed consisting of a base, 15, havingtwo upright ends, 16, with inclined outer faces, two vertical posts, 17,standing upon said base, and having also inclined outer faces tocorrespond with those above named on said base, and across-tie, 18,uniting the upper ends of said posts 17. The said inclined faces of theupright parts 16 ot' of said frame B and of said posts 17 are titted toreceive upon each end of the said frame two inclined needle-bars,- candQ', which are suitably secured thereto to permit them to have an easyreciprocating motion on frame B in thedirection of their length. Saidneedle-bars have each of them a cam-slot, n3, formed therein, throughwhich the cranks z a project; but the form of said cam-slots diers ineach needle-bar, so that their motions upon frame AB shall bedifferential. The needle-bar c has secured to its upper end the eyedneedle w, and is actuated by the crank z', while the bart' has thehook-needle a," secured to it, and is actuated by the crank'z. Saidneedle-bart'is adapted to operate in a direct manner the castLoff c,which is tubular, and through which the hookneedle passes, as seen inFig. 4. Said castoft' is secured to the upper end of the cast-oft bar o,which is fitted onto frame B by the side of said needle-bar t', thelatter being formed to receive it. A spring, o2, is placed between theouter edge of said bar o and its side bearing in frame B to crowd saidbar and create sufficient friction to cause the cast-off bar to reststationary except when moved up or down by the needle-bar t'. Acast-olt`adjusting-stop, r, is secured to the face of needle-bar t by a screwpassing through a slot therein, as shown, said stop having an inclinededge, which stands under the lower end of the cast-off bar 0, wherebythe working-distance of the cast-ott` 'U from the point of the needle a"is determined by moving stop r to the right or left, so that when theneedle-bar moves up to carry said needle through the fabric the lowerend of the cast-off bar may be struck by such a part of said inclinededge as will carry the cast-off up to the proper height. A cast-otf-barguide, s, having a longitudinal slot therein, is secured to the face ofthe needle-bar t' below the castoft' bar o, and a pin passes through,said slot into said bar o. Said guide s serves to draw the cast-oft' barand cast-oft' down at a proper time after the thread-loop has been castoft' from the hook-needle.

The above-described means of adjusting the upthrow ofthe cast-olf@ isdemanded to adapt the relative working positions of cast-bfi and needletofabricsot' varying thickness. A shaft, c, is tted to run in properbearings in the 'vertical posts 17 in the oscillating frame B,

and on each end of said shaft is secured a crank-block, in each ofwhichis secured acrank, z and e', which, as above described, projects throughthe cam-slots a3 in the needle-bars c and t'. A hand-wheel, 21, forslowly turning shaft c, is secured to one ot' said cranks. Upon saidshaft c, between said vertical posts 17 in frame B,is secured a groovedpulley, d, around which a proper band runs to give motion to said shaft.Thus pulley dis the driving-pulley, and has a camlgroove, d2, cut in oneside thereof, which receives the end cfa roller-stud secured to-the side(near its end) of the horizontal arm of the elbow-lever f, the latterbeing pivoted to the i'ulcrum-hlocl c2 on the front plate, E, as in Fig.7. Said Fulcrum-block is provided with several pivot-holes, and saidelbow-lever is provided With coinciding holes, whereby the fulcrum-pointof leverj'may be changed by changing the position of the pivot-pin 22,and thereby such a change may be ei'ected in the length ot' the movementof the upper end of the vertical arm of leverf as may be desired toproduce a longer or shorter feed in the machine, as will be hereinaftermore fully set forth. Said shaft chas xed thereomin addition to pulleyd, the presser-foot cam b and the take-up cam a.

The oscillating frameB is provided with two trunnions a2 one located ateach end of thel loo lIO

the connecting-rod w. Thus, since the ful- Crum-point of said lever j'in block e2 is immovable on plate E, audits horizontal arm is vibratedvertically by its engagement with the cam-groove d2 in pulley d,vibratory movements ofits vertical arm cause frame B to oscilj', asabove described.

late, as aforesaid.

It will be seen that the needles' swing with frame B, and the exent ofthat swing to produce stitches of the desired length is determined bychanging the fulcrum-point of lever The presser-footn is provided withtwo slots, as shown,through which the needles pass, and in which theyswing in feeding, and is secured to the vertical presser-bar, which issupported in the studs o5 on the front plate, E. A block, m2, is securedon said presser-bar, and aspriug, fm., is placed on thelatter betweensaid block and the lower stud, oi', whereby the presser bar and foot areforced upward. A presser-bar lever, i2,

.Y is hung by the side of the stud v2 on said front plate. ()ne end ofsaid lever, in which is a friction-roll, as shown, extends over cam b onshaft c .and its opposite end bears upon the top side of said block m2on the presser-bar, so that once in each revolution of shaft c, and asoften as a s'titch is made by the needles, the presser-foot is depressedto free the fabric, so that it may be freely fed along by the needles.rIhe take-up 0 is pivoted to frame A in the rear of the oscillatingframe B, its vertical arm being provided with a suitable thread-guidingroll. One arm of said take-up reaches within frame B, and extends overthe cam a on shaft c, whereby the requisite swing of said take-up toproperly draw the thread is e'ected. j

'lhe arm Jof themachine, attached, as aforesaid, to the rear end of theframe A, extends over to a point nearly over the center of thepresser-foot, and to the end thereofis fixed the vertical cloth-platestand H, whose lower end terminates in two feet, as .shown in Fig. 2, towhich issecured the cloth-plate K, having an opening therein to permitthe needles to pass up through. For sewing ordinary butted or lappedseam work, which requires no binding, the. machine is operated with the'parts thereof constructed and arranged as above described; but when aheavy fabric is to be operated uponsuch as that which enters into thefabrication of blankets and such similar goods-other and additionalattachments are employed with the machine, as hereinafter described.

In sewing the aforesaid simple butted and lap seam work the machine isoperated as follows: Connection by ordinary band with the driving-pulleyd may be made with any con- -venient foot-power or other drivingmechanism. Any convenient treadle attachment may be made with .thelower-end of the presser-foot shaft, whereby the presser-foot may bedrawn down away from the cloth-plate for the purpose of inserting worktherebetween, or'for -other purposes. 1f the parts to be united are tohave a lap-seam sewed,one edgeis laid upon the other between thepresser-foot and the .cloth-plate, carrying their ends forward, so thatthe needles will pierce them when they tirst pass upward. The thread ispassed around a tensionroller, o7, in the ordinary way, thence over athread-roller, 90, on frameB, (see Fig. 1,) thence back over a roller onthe take-up, and thence through the eye of the needlex, a loose endbeing left, as usual. After the work has been properly placed in themachine, shaft c may be slowly turned by seizing the handwheel 21 toascertain that all parts are properly adjusted to the work, when themachine may bc started at full speed.

1n sewing, the cranks z z', operating in the cam-slots in theneedle-bars c t', ca'rrysaid bars and their needles upand down. Theeyedneedle moves up and pierces the faliric,'liist carrying the threadconsiderably above thetop ofthe fabric. The hook-needle follows andpierces the fabric, and the needles stand crossing each other, but theeyed needle having started -down beforel the hook-needle cross 1t, aloop is formed 0n the side of thefoimer, which the hook-needle passesupthrongh and attaches itself to, and as the eyed needle draws down outof the fabric said loop becomes engaged with the hook-needle and is byit drawn down through-the fabric, where. after the next loop is formed,it is cast oif by the operation of the parts above-described iu theusual way. Previous to the time during the above-described sewingopera-tion when both needles leave the fabric cam b and lever t2 operateto press down' the presser-foot, relieving the fabric from pressure, andthenthe cam-groove d2 acts onvthe elbow-lever] to lift the end of itshorizontal arm, and thus swing the Lipper end of frame B toward thefront plate, E, which causes the needles to draw the fabric along or tofeed it, when the needles draw quite down and swing back and repeat theabovedescribed operations. The action of the take-up o', which isoperated directly by the ea-m ce on shaft c, is of be pressed togetherand held down to a properl positionjust before they encounter theneedles. As above' alluded to, the operator on this machine stands attherear end thereof and guides the work away from him toward the front ofthe machine, the arm J of the machine pointing from him and standingbetween his arms.

In sewing the before-mentioned heavy blanket-work, making what is termedthe back seam, (which, with its binding, is illustrated in Fig. 11,) thefeller 5 and gage '5 are used jointly, and the presser-foot, having thebind- IOO IIO

ISO

ing-perforation and the binding-tension c2, Fig. 6, is used.. Apresser-foot of the same construction is shown in Fig. 5. Theseam'illustrated in Fig. 12 may be sewed in the manner described last bydrawing the binding away from the presser-foot. The binding c3 is drawnfrom a roll under the machine, as in Fig. 1, being led up over a guide,where a tensionspi ing, 15, bears upon it, thence under a guideroll, andthence n p through the presser-footwl and under the binding-tension c2,of elastic metal, adjustable to press with greater or less force uponthe binding, and thence over the face of the presser-foot to a positionwhere the needles will penetrate itat the same time they do thefabric.1t will be seen that as the fabric and binding are fed along together tobe sewed the binding is kept straight and smooth by the action oftension c2 upon it.

In arranging for sewing said back seam the feller 5 is secured to thepresser-foot, as in Fig. 1, and the gage 5 is secured to the clothplate.Said feller 5 is illustrated on an enlarged scale in Fig. 9, and isconstructed with a dat plate-shaped base, 23, from which is folded, in aflat tubular tapering form, one edge of the plate to form anelliptic-shaped t'eller,with one edge of the plate 24interposed betweensaid base and the upper side ot' said feller. A slotted arm, 25, isattached to one side thereof, through which screws pass to secure theattachment to the presser-foot. The gage 5,5- is bent, as shown, tocorrespond somewhat to the curve of the side of said feller. Fig. 10illustrates, looking from the operatoi-s standpoint, as abovedescribed', the rear end of said feller and guide and the positions ofboth edges of the blanket as it is being guided and fed therethroughpreparatory to being sewed, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12. It will beobserved that whatis termed the outside ofthe work is carried next tothe presserfoot.

Figs. 13, 14, and l5 illustrate a seaming attachment adapted to be usedin making with this machine such seams as are illustrated in Figs. 16and 17,v which may be of a simple single-edge fold or a center seam, asshown in Fig. 17. In both of these cases the binding is usedl when thefabric is not of strong quality, to prevent the edges from pulling oli'.Said seamer, Fig. 13, consists of a base-plate, 26, having a turned-upside, 28, at right angles to the former, and of a cover-plate, 27,parallel to the face of plate 26, and connected to the latter by avertical side, 2S), whereby a fabric passage is formed between plates 26and 27, and between the edge of the latter and said right-angled side28, so that the edge ot' the fabric may be folded over the edge of saidplate 27, the edge thereof lying between plates 26 and 27, as in Figs.14 and 15. Said attachment isprovided with the usual slotted arni, 30,whereby it may be secured to the presser-foot n, and is slightly raisedabove the latter by a block, 31, to permit, if desired, of passing theedge of a piece ot' fabric under plate 26, so as to form a seam such asis illustrated in Fig. 17.

In adapting this machine to sew tubular work, as illustrated in Fig. 21,the tube-arm L `is substituted for the arm J of the machine,

and a cloth plate, K, is secured to the under side of the end thereof',as shown. A tubeseamer, 10, of cylindrical form, but having an edgeattached to one side thereof and carried under the former and bent inthe shape of an S, to form two seamer-guides, is attached to the end ofsaid arm L, and a folding-ring, 12, encircles said cylindrical seamer,leaving room between the two for the fabric 13 to pass. Said fabric isin the form of a band, and being passed around the part 10 and withinring 12, with its edges inserted in the S-shaped guides 11, it is drawnout beyond the end ot' arm L, so that the vneedles may pierce it, whenthe latter will, as the machine is operated, continue to sew anddrawthefabric along through said guide parts and deliver it in the formof a tube, as shown in Fig. 21.

The above-described sewing devices are peculiarly adapted to sew thestrong, firm seams required in the manufacture of sails and like work.

I do not claim the various guiding and feeding devices other than thatshown in Fig. 1, as the same may constitute subjects of separateapplications; but l have shown and described the same to illustratedifferent operations with the machine set forth.

What I claim as my invention is- 1. In a needle-feed sewing-machine, anoscillating frame to carry two needle-bars at an angle to each other,and having trunnions thereon whereby it is pivoted to the machine, adriving-shaft hung in said oscillating frame, and appliances,substantially as described, t'or rotating said shaft and imparting anoscillating motion to said frame and shaft, all com-l bined andoperating substantially as set forth.

2. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, of an oscillatingneedle-bar frame, hung on trunnions in the frame of the niachine, twoneedle-bars located on said oscillating frame at angles to each other,each having a cam-slot therein, adriving-shaft hung iu said oscillatingframe, and having cranks thereon to engage in said cam-slots in saidneedlebars, and mechanism, substantially as described, for rotating saidshaft and imparting an oscillating motion to said frame, needlebars, andshaft, substantially as set forth.

3. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, ot an oscillatingneedle-bar frame hung on trunnions iu the frame of the ma chine, twoneedle-bars located on said oscillating frame at angles to each other,each having a cam-slotV therein, a driving-shaft hung in saidoscillating frame, and having -cranks thereon to engage in saidcam-slots in said needle-bars, appliances, substantially as described,for rotating said shaft and imparting an oscillating motion to saidframe, needlebars,and shafts,a presser-foot supported upon a bar havingsupports in the frame of the machine, and means, substantially asdescribed, whereby the said presser-foot is caused to have anintermittent vertical motion by the rotation of said driving-shaft,substantially as set forth.

4. Inaneedle-feed sewing-machine, an oscillating needle-.bar frame hungupon truunions in the frame ot' the machine, two needlebars, each havinga cam-slot therein, and each carrying a needle located on saidoscillating frame at angles to each other, a driving-shaft hung in saidoscillating frame, having two cranks thereon engaging in said cam-slotsin said needle-bars, a take-up pivoted to the frame of the machine, andhaving an arm thereon extending over said driving-shaft, a cam fixed onsaid shaft to strike the arm of said take-up, and means, substantiallyas described, for rotating said driving-shaft and imparting anoscillating motion to said frame, needle-bars, and shaft, all combinedand operating substantially as set forth.

.5. ln combination, the oscillating needlebar frame hung on trunnions inthe frame of the machine, a driving-shaft hung in said frame, adriving-pulley fixed on said shaft, and having a cam-groove formed inits side, an elbow-lever pivoted adjustably to a fixed stud on themachine, having its horizontal arm engaging with said cam-groove insaid` driving-pulley and its vertical arm connected to said oscillatingframe, substantially as set forth.

6. In combination, the hook-needle bar i, the hook-needle x', thecast-off bar o, cast-off t', and the stop 1, having an inclined face andsecured adjiustab-l y to t-he bar t', substantially as set forth.

7. In combination, the frame B, the needlebars e and t', standing at anangle to each other and their needles, the cast-oft' bar o, and casto iffo, the adjustingstop r, and the guide s on said needle-bar t', springo2, and a-ppliances,

of the 'feller 5, attached to said presser-foot, and the gage 5g,secured to said cloth-plate,

substantially as set forth.

9. The combination, in a needle-feed sewingmachine, of an oscillatingneedle-bar frame hung on trunnions in the frame ot' the machine, twoneedle-bars, with their needles located on said oscillating frameat-angles to each other, each of said bars having a camslot therein, adriving-shaft hung4 in said oscillating frame, and having cranks thereonto engage in said cam-slots in said 4needle-bars, appliances,substantially as described, for rotating said shaft and for imparting anoscillating motion to said frame, needle-bars, and shaft, a presser-footsupported upon a bar having supports in the frame of the machine, andopera-ting mechanism, and a cloth-plate supported in axed position abovesaid presserfoot, substantially as set forth.

10. The within-described improved feller and gage 5 and 5, consisting ofthe flat bascplate 23, from which is folded in a fiat, tubular, taperingform one edge of said lplate to form an elliptic-shaped feller, with oneedge, 24, of said plate interposed between said baseplate 23 and theupper side of said feller, and the curved gage 5g, combined andoperating substantially as set forth.

JAMES H. MORLEY.

Writnesses:

C. S. PARKHURST, H. A. GHAPIN.

